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Having Fun and Staying Healthy by Surfing, Part 2 of 2

2021-06-19
Lingua:English

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Surfing and swimming go hand in hand. In the early 1900s, Duke Kahanamoku, nicknamed “The Duke,” was a master of both. As a talented swimmer, he broke three freestyle swimming records and won a gold medal in a freestyle event at the 1912 Olympics and two more in 1920. This shined the spotlight on his life in Hawaii, where he displayed his surfing talents and introduced a new sport to the world at large.

Surfing not only brings physical health benefits, but also provides psychological benefits. It brings serenity and a greater respect for Nature’s beauty into one’s life. Surfing is being used as a powerful rehabilitation tool for sufferers of drug addictions and other disorders, bringing the surfers a newfound sense of joy and connection with nature.

“Water is medicine. It is! This is Naoki, a 13-year- old boy who wrote a bestseller about autism. Here’s what he had to say about water: ‘I’m free and happy there. Free and happy. I feel like you because the world is so noisy, but in the water, I’m free.’ That’s what it’s about. This is Martin Pollock, a veteran from the UK. [He] returned from service missing both legs and an arm. Now, Martin is a surfer; he sees himself as a surfer. He’s an ambassador. Not only is he an ambassador for surfing, he is an ambassador for the ocean, for our waters.” Well, it’s no wonder surfers are drawn back to these aquatic playgrounds, which offer so many health benefits, regardless of whether one is just beginning or at an advanced level. Majestic scenery and wildlife are often also encountered while venturing out to the beach and surrounding areas. Dolphins and other wildlife touch our souls when we experience them in their natural environments.

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